Wednesday, June 21, 2006
yes, i'm alive. here's what i've been doing.
Current location: High Point Coffee, Memphis, TN
Am killing time/having my morning fix before the National Civil Rights Museum opens. Have a lot to recap for y’all. Let me start at the beginning.
Friday was a great day of driving.
Number of dead deer spotted: 4
License plates (yes, I’m playing this game): DC, VA, MD, PA, NY, NJ, MO, WV, FL, NC, SC, TN, GA, DE, CT, IN, OH, IL, CA, KY, TX, OK, MI, ME (truck only, does it count? Yes, until I see a car one)
Highlight of the trip: Best Fish Sandwich Ever
Stopped for lunch in Wheeling, WV, went directly to the Wheeling Visitor’s Center (not a busy place) and asked for lunch recommendations. (I’ve since been told this was very Rachael Ray of me) The very kind woman said, we have everything, Mexican and Chinese… and I said, um, ok, but where would YOU go for lunch today? Well, it’s Friday so I’d probably head down to the fish market. She pulled out a map, gave me directions down there and how to get back to the interstate when I was done. Gourmet magazine called it the best fish sandwich in the country back in 2001. I am not a comparative fish sandwich expert, but I have to say, it was amazing. As were all the people who I talked to while in line (um, if the fish deluxe comes with a bun what does the fish sandwich come on? Answer: white bread) and who I shared a table with. Whee for lunch in Wheeling!
Found my sister Jess’s apartment without incident. Found new sunglasses at a cute shop on her block. Met some of her friends for apps and drinks outside. Very little makes me happier than al fresco apps and drink. They serve entire pitchers of beer for $5 here. Not on happy hour special on a Monday. All the time. Even on a Friday night. At 9pm. What? I see the benefits to living in a smaller city already.
Saturday was very hot. The kind of day you’re just not ready for in June, but expect come August. We would do one thing, then have to come home and take a break. There was coffee at the cutest children’s bookstore, there was exploration at Ohio’s oldest market Findlay Market searching for melons, tomatoes and cherries, there was famous ice cream, there was trying on of $175 jeans at a cute boutique, there was a return to the grocery store where Jess once left groceries behind (That’s right. Just blatantly forgot items she purchased.) There was even a nap. Divine.
The nighttime adventure began simply enough with a barbeque. Hamburgers were eaten, Cornhole was played (it’s an Ohio thing. It’s not dirty.), a few rounds of Asshole (Ohio rules) were enjoyed. Thanks Jen and Eric!
Then we left to go to a place called Adonis. I hesitate to call Adonis a bar, as it was more like an old wedding reception hall. Adonis, as the name suggests, caters to gay men. Jess’s friend Susan and I met a fantastic young man named Jonathan who is 24, works as a dancer on a cruise ship as way to dance for a living and to see the world outside of Cincinnati. He told us we could do it and work running bingo and whatnot and work about 10 hours a week. I like that idea. The true depth of his preciousness is not easily translated. He’s a total sweetheart and he’ll live in my memory as one of my favorite best friends for five minutes in a bar.
Weeks ago, Jess emailed some guys off craigslist who were meeting in Cincinnati as a final weekend for a friend of theirs who was about to enter the priesthood. Sort of a bachelor party before you marry the Lord kind of thing. Cincinnati was somehow a central location and none of them knew anything about the city, hence the cry for help on CL. She had given them all sorts of tips about where to go out, as she is quite knowledgeable of such things. As a pleasant surprise, the priest party called to say thanks/invite us out earlier. So we knew we'd be leaving Adonis at some point. A risky hailing of a cab later (i.e. I walked out in front of it) we were at McFadden’s. So now we’re at a bar, nearing last call, looking for people we don’t know. “Hi, are you with the priest party?” We eventually find them, as well as many, many strange White Sox fans. Some of us make better friends with the White Sox fans than others (and no, it wasn’t me. or Jess.) We end the night with my first visit to Skyline for chili. Who knew chili was good at 3am and many beers? Now I do.
Sunday was a day of rest. And a day of appreciating electricity. Jess lives in an old building and her entire apartment is on one fuse, we speculate. It should be reasonable to have the TV, the AC and a light on at the same time, no? When the fuse is blown we can’t even fix it so we have to leave her apartment and take refuge at the local bar.
Monday was a day of reflection. A day of killing time at coffee shop and reading and impulse buying shoes I’d later return while Jess is at work. I love this vacation thing.
Tuesday I drive to Memphis where I will be staying with my sister’s friend Carol. Stop in Nashville for lunch at my favorite Calypso Cafe where the fruit tea and black beans are every bit as good as I remember them. I get the fabulous corn muffins to go, thinking how good they’ll be to enjoy later. I later leave the corn muffins in Carol’s fridge in Memphis. Classic. The drive has some very painful parts to it and I only collect a few new license plates: AR, IA, MS, AL, OR. There aren't even any good billboards about going to hell or reminding me God is watching me. Just a lot of trucks and a lot of nothing. Oh, and it's hot. Very hot. And every time I turn the AC on in the car I worry the car is going to overheat. So I sweat. A lot.
Carol is a fantastic host and tour guide. Thankfully, I have been to Graceland before so I don’t ask her to take me there for the millionth time (and she’s only lived here 10 months). We have dinner on Beale Street, where I get over my “I don’t like to eat meat off the bone” thing and order ribs. Because that’s what you eat here. And they were great. We wander around a little after dinner because apparently I’ve become an old person who needs to walk around after a big meal. I’m also old because I’m getting tired and everywhere with live blues are really, really loud and so we end up at Pat O’Brien’s piano bar instead. Yes, I know, the New Orleans landmark in Memphis. But it was the right thing to do.
And now, I am going to head out. Museum is open now, I’m finished with my coffee, it’s time to leave the sweet air conditioning and face the heat. Congrats if you actually read this whole thing. I'm babbling. Next update won't be so long in coming, I promise.
Am killing time/having my morning fix before the National Civil Rights Museum opens. Have a lot to recap for y’all. Let me start at the beginning.
Friday was a great day of driving.
Number of dead deer spotted: 4
License plates (yes, I’m playing this game): DC, VA, MD, PA, NY, NJ, MO, WV, FL, NC, SC, TN, GA, DE, CT, IN, OH, IL, CA, KY, TX, OK, MI, ME (truck only, does it count? Yes, until I see a car one)
Highlight of the trip: Best Fish Sandwich Ever
Stopped for lunch in Wheeling, WV, went directly to the Wheeling Visitor’s Center (not a busy place) and asked for lunch recommendations. (I’ve since been told this was very Rachael Ray of me) The very kind woman said, we have everything, Mexican and Chinese… and I said, um, ok, but where would YOU go for lunch today? Well, it’s Friday so I’d probably head down to the fish market. She pulled out a map, gave me directions down there and how to get back to the interstate when I was done. Gourmet magazine called it the best fish sandwich in the country back in 2001. I am not a comparative fish sandwich expert, but I have to say, it was amazing. As were all the people who I talked to while in line (um, if the fish deluxe comes with a bun what does the fish sandwich come on? Answer: white bread) and who I shared a table with. Whee for lunch in Wheeling!
Found my sister Jess’s apartment without incident. Found new sunglasses at a cute shop on her block. Met some of her friends for apps and drinks outside. Very little makes me happier than al fresco apps and drink. They serve entire pitchers of beer for $5 here. Not on happy hour special on a Monday. All the time. Even on a Friday night. At 9pm. What? I see the benefits to living in a smaller city already.
Saturday was very hot. The kind of day you’re just not ready for in June, but expect come August. We would do one thing, then have to come home and take a break. There was coffee at the cutest children’s bookstore, there was exploration at Ohio’s oldest market Findlay Market searching for melons, tomatoes and cherries, there was famous ice cream, there was trying on of $175 jeans at a cute boutique, there was a return to the grocery store where Jess once left groceries behind (That’s right. Just blatantly forgot items she purchased.) There was even a nap. Divine.
The nighttime adventure began simply enough with a barbeque. Hamburgers were eaten, Cornhole was played (it’s an Ohio thing. It’s not dirty.), a few rounds of Asshole (Ohio rules) were enjoyed. Thanks Jen and Eric!
Then we left to go to a place called Adonis. I hesitate to call Adonis a bar, as it was more like an old wedding reception hall. Adonis, as the name suggests, caters to gay men. Jess’s friend Susan and I met a fantastic young man named Jonathan who is 24, works as a dancer on a cruise ship as way to dance for a living and to see the world outside of Cincinnati. He told us we could do it and work running bingo and whatnot and work about 10 hours a week. I like that idea. The true depth of his preciousness is not easily translated. He’s a total sweetheart and he’ll live in my memory as one of my favorite best friends for five minutes in a bar.
Weeks ago, Jess emailed some guys off craigslist who were meeting in Cincinnati as a final weekend for a friend of theirs who was about to enter the priesthood. Sort of a bachelor party before you marry the Lord kind of thing. Cincinnati was somehow a central location and none of them knew anything about the city, hence the cry for help on CL. She had given them all sorts of tips about where to go out, as she is quite knowledgeable of such things. As a pleasant surprise, the priest party called to say thanks/invite us out earlier. So we knew we'd be leaving Adonis at some point. A risky hailing of a cab later (i.e. I walked out in front of it) we were at McFadden’s. So now we’re at a bar, nearing last call, looking for people we don’t know. “Hi, are you with the priest party?” We eventually find them, as well as many, many strange White Sox fans. Some of us make better friends with the White Sox fans than others (and no, it wasn’t me. or Jess.) We end the night with my first visit to Skyline for chili. Who knew chili was good at 3am and many beers? Now I do.
Sunday was a day of rest. And a day of appreciating electricity. Jess lives in an old building and her entire apartment is on one fuse, we speculate. It should be reasonable to have the TV, the AC and a light on at the same time, no? When the fuse is blown we can’t even fix it so we have to leave her apartment and take refuge at the local bar.
Monday was a day of reflection. A day of killing time at coffee shop and reading and impulse buying shoes I’d later return while Jess is at work. I love this vacation thing.
Tuesday I drive to Memphis where I will be staying with my sister’s friend Carol. Stop in Nashville for lunch at my favorite Calypso Cafe where the fruit tea and black beans are every bit as good as I remember them. I get the fabulous corn muffins to go, thinking how good they’ll be to enjoy later. I later leave the corn muffins in Carol’s fridge in Memphis. Classic. The drive has some very painful parts to it and I only collect a few new license plates: AR, IA, MS, AL, OR. There aren't even any good billboards about going to hell or reminding me God is watching me. Just a lot of trucks and a lot of nothing. Oh, and it's hot. Very hot. And every time I turn the AC on in the car I worry the car is going to overheat. So I sweat. A lot.
Carol is a fantastic host and tour guide. Thankfully, I have been to Graceland before so I don’t ask her to take me there for the millionth time (and she’s only lived here 10 months). We have dinner on Beale Street, where I get over my “I don’t like to eat meat off the bone” thing and order ribs. Because that’s what you eat here. And they were great. We wander around a little after dinner because apparently I’ve become an old person who needs to walk around after a big meal. I’m also old because I’m getting tired and everywhere with live blues are really, really loud and so we end up at Pat O’Brien’s piano bar instead. Yes, I know, the New Orleans landmark in Memphis. But it was the right thing to do.
And now, I am going to head out. Museum is open now, I’m finished with my coffee, it’s time to leave the sweet air conditioning and face the heat. Congrats if you actually read this whole thing. I'm babbling. Next update won't be so long in coming, I promise.
# posted by kristen : 7:26 AM
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Post more ramblings -- if I can't be traveling cross-country in the South on the first day of summer I need someone else to be.
Speaking of God-fearing billboards, if you happen to pass through Utah, observe this gem:
Just across the Utah border a billboard -- on a plain blue field sits a coiled snake emblazoned with the words "Pornography: just as deadly."
In case you were, um, smuggling porn with you, you'd know not to, ahm, leave it alone with mice?
Keep yourself (and your porn) safe on the road. We're thinking of you.
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Speaking of God-fearing billboards, if you happen to pass through Utah, observe this gem:
Just across the Utah border a billboard -- on a plain blue field sits a coiled snake emblazoned with the words "Pornography: just as deadly."
In case you were, um, smuggling porn with you, you'd know not to, ahm, leave it alone with mice?
Keep yourself (and your porn) safe on the road. We're thinking of you.
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